Scotland, May 27-June 5, 2006

Saturday, May 27. Departed Chicago 8 p.m.

Sunday, May 28.
Arrived at Glasgow Airport after a typical miserable overnight plane trip. Found a cash machine and got some money, then bought a map at the Scottish Tourist Centre. Then waited in line (or queue) for a half hour or so to finally get a car. (Note: don’t waste a pound on some weird thingie that is supposed to brush your teeth when you chew it—it’s awful)

Were given a black Peugeot station wagon. Getting out of the airport and heading north was not so hard but once on the A-road it was harrowing driving on the lefthand side. Everything looked too close to the side of the car and David had trouble getting used to shifting with the left hand. However, finding our way to Luss wasn’t too hard and although we first missed the turn for the Lodge at Lake Lomond, we had to turn around and come back and finally arrived in one piece.

Had a nice room, decorated sort of Alpine lodge style, with our own balcony over the Loch. There was a sauna too but we didn’t have time to use it. Many birds were singing and there were rainbows over the loch so it was quite pleasant. We went into the town of Luss and walked around for a while. Pretty town but full of tourists as it was a three day bank holiday. Saw the church, which was picturesque and looked at the old gravestones as one was supposed to be for a Viking. Weren’t really sure which one it was. As is apparently typical for Scotland, even with the sun shining it could start raining smartly, then just as suddenly stop again. It wasn’t that cold but my fingers began to tingle. Maybe certain places in Scotland just do that. David said he didn’t think Loch Lomond would look like Lake Geneva, with all the jet-skis, but it sort of did.
Went to our room and took a nap for a couple hours, which helped a lot. We got up and changed for dinner. Had a pleasant dinner with a great view of the loch, and as the picture shows, double rainbows. Afterwards we walked around the loch for a while and back into Luss. Had a drink at a local pub. The sun was setting by now and it was very scenic. We left the window open a bit to hear all the birdsong all night. There were some very tuneful starlings and sparrows.

Monday, May 29
Breakfast started at 7:30 which was the earliest breakfast of the hotels we stayed at. Had our first Scottish breakfast. The tattie scones (fried potato slices) were not so great, but the salmon and eggs was good. David’s black pudding was also not the best. Still, it was an ample breakfast and afterwards as we were packing to go we could still hear all the birds singing and enjoy a lovely view over the loch.

Headed north along Loch Lomond until we exited west on the Road to the Isles. This took us through Rest and Be Thankful Pass, which is a nice place to stop and enjoy the mountain scenery. The next place we stopped was the Loch Fyne Oyster Bar but just to look around as we were still full from breakfast. We soon came to the town of Inverary and stopped at Inverary Castle, the residence of the Duke of Argyll, but we didn’t go inside. An older gent in a kilt was taking admission. We then stopped at the Inverary Woollen Mill which also had a gent in a kilt but this one was playing the bagpipe. Bought some sweaters and other souvenirs here.

Next stop was Kilchurn Castle (15th c), which we could see but weren’t sure how to get to. Walked down to where supposedly a boatman would take people over, but the boat wasn’t running. Asked at a nearby hotel and were given good directions on how to walk to the castle. This was our introduction into the difficulty of finding the way to certain antiquities since many of them are not well marked and you have to tromp through a sheep pasture to get to them. Kilchurn Castle sits on Loch Awe and used to be on a small island but since a dam was built it can be reached by land. An atmospheric castle with nice views of the loch.

Next stop on the way to Ballachulish was a gift shop/cafe with a view of Castle Stalker (1320) on Loch Linnhe. Had a sandwich and bought some gifts. This was the castle used at the end of "Monty Python and the Holy Grail" although we didn’t know it at the time. Also saw some Shetland ponies here. Read that Castle Stalker will be open for tours next year.

Arrived at Ballachulish House, the classiest and probably prettiest place we stayed. Very elegant country house dating to 1610 and owned by the Stewarts of Ballachulish. Apparently this is where the orders for the massacre at Glen Coe were given. The house sits on its own golf course but the grounds of the estate itself are very pretty.

We settled in and then went to drive through the mountains of Glen Coe. These are quite tall mountains and every bend has more breathtaking views. Stopped at a pullout ("lay-by" in Scotland) where the requisite bagpiper was playing. I think that was the site of the Glen Coe massacre but not sure. Went on a bit until we got caught in a traffic jam—there was work on a bridge and apparently the lights weren’t working—but then went on a way past that until the landscape became less dramatic, and then turned around.

We dressed for dinner and then went down to the lovely drawing room where we had pre-dinner drinks and canapés. Talked to an English couple who had driven up from the Lake District and were much enamored with Inverewe Gardens, where we weren’t going. “All the best golf courses are in the east of Scotland, of course” sniffed the husband. Also had a warm greeting from Marie MacLaughlin, the owner.

Had a very long dinner—took almost three hours—with many courses which I don’t even remember, but their chef is top-rated and famous. There was some kind of asparagus cappuchino soup that was good. I had monkfish and David had lamb. Anyway, we retired before the coffee and hand made chocolates served in the drawing room, but the server gave us some chocolates anyway.

Tuesday, May 30
Had a nice breakfast—delicious smoked haddock in some kind of dill sauce with an egg, very good. David had the full Scottish breakfast. Took a short walk around the beautiful grounds, then headed north towards Fort William. Turned here to follow the Road to the Isles to Glenfinnan, to see the viaduct. However, the parking lot was crowded and the view of the viaduct not very good. Lots of children getting their pictures taken with the viaduct in the background due to its appearance in the Harry Potter films. Turned back to Fort William and found old Inverlochy Castle (1280), a nice ruin with four towers, a wall around it and the remains of a moat. A classic castle shape in a lovely green setting. In the distance we could see Ben Nevis.

Drove to the Ben Nevis visitors center and then on through the mountains for a bit. Lots of lovely mountain scenery with plenty of sheep and some cows and lots of yellow gorse.

After this we headed towards the Kyle of Lochalsh to get to the Isle of Skye. A very pretty route, not crowded, with views of Glen Garry (supposed to be one of the most famous Highland views) on along the Glen Shiel ridge on one side and the Five Sisters of Kintail peaks on the other. These are some of the highest mountains in Scotland. Near Loch Garry saw a monument for the Well of the Seven Heads, which commemorates a skirmish between two clans.

Finally reached Eileen Donan Castle (13th c) and stopped to go inside. This is supposed to be the most photographed castle in Scotland. Like many others, it sits on an island, but is reachable by land when the tide is out. There is a bridge from the parking lot. Was blown up by the English in the 1700s and not restored until 1911. Nice gift shop. From the castle you can see Skye bridge.

Crossed over onto the Isle of Skye. Stopped at a little town at the visitors centre to get a brochure of archaelogical sites and a map. Went on to Portree (or Port Righ, King's Port) and with some difficulty finally found Cuillin Hills Hotel. Beautiful views of the Cuillin mountains from our window and from the hotel front lawn. Also had a nice view of the colorful town of Portree.

Checked in and made reservations to eat in the pub for dinner. Then walked around the grounds and down along the shoreline on a footpath. Here we had a good dinner—I had cullen skink and a big bowl of very fresh mussels. David had a ribeye.

Wednesday, May 31
After a pretty good breakfast we drove up the Trotternish peninsula. First view was of the Old Man of Storr, a peak that stands out from the other mountains. Lovely views out to sea and of the mainland. Also lots of sheep.

Stopped at a trail which should have gone to a Pictish stone, but couldn’t find it. Instead we walked to a nice view of the sea from the top of the cliff. Driving along the same road, we saw Kilt Rock but couldn’t find a good place to take a picture. We went off down a side road towards Uig to see the Quiraing. This is a steep, hilly area with rock formations, some in pinnacles. Many hikers (hillwalkers in Scotland) here and nice vistas out towards the sea. Also lots of sheep.

Went on north to Staffin. I wanted to see the Flodigarry Country House Hotel so we found that and went down a very nice, winding drive to see the hotel. Lovely setting but remote and there is nothing else around there but a few houses.

Drove on around the tip of the peninsula until we could see the Atlantic Ocean looking towards the Western Isles. On the west side of the tip there is a very old ruin of a Norse stronghold, called Duntulm. After the Norse it was a MacLeod castle. I would have gotten better pictures if there weren’t a lot of German tourists perched on top of it. The steps down to the dungeon (supposed to be very haunted) were closed off but it looked dreary. We could see a small island through a window in one of the still-standing walls, which was picturesque.

After this we traveled south towards Uig, where we would catch the ferry the next day. Looked for some hill forts and brochs in the pastures along the way, but usually weren’t sure where they were. Arrived in Uig and it was easy to see where the ferry comes in, since it’s a pretty small town. Just south of Uig we turned off onto a tiny single track road and went into an area called the Fairy Glen, with strange perfectly conical hills. It is very otherwordly and sort of spooky. Waterfalls and mini-lochs and sheep.

Also just south of Uig we found a single standing stone, out in the middle of a sheep pasture. Slogged up to see it. David said he could feel some sort of sensation from it. The dead and rotting sheep carcass nearby did not add to its appeal.

Drove on south towards Dunvegan Castle. Decided not to stop to look for other brochs or hill forts or stones because it was getting late in the afternoon. Paid our admission and toured Dunvegan Castle, which is one of the oldest still-inhabited castles. The current clan chief, John MacLeod, lives there and narrates a video talking about the castle history. Dunvegan is the most popular tourist site on Skye. The motto is “hold fast” and shows a bull; supposedly an early clan chief, Malcolm, came home from a tryst and had to fight and slay a mighty bull with only his dirk. The bull’s horn is on display and each new clan chief has to prove his worth by draining a horn’s full of claret “while neither setting down or falling down.”

Also on display is the MacLeod clan’s “Fairy Flag”. This is a scrap of cloth which was supposed to give the clan victory in battle. It is was said to have been brought to Scotland during the Crusades, but carbon dating shows it to date to 700 A.D., so it’s older than the Crusades. There is a Fairy Tower too but I don’t remember why it was called that other than because it housed the Fairy Flag. There was a pewter cup with engravings that were mis-read and used as the beginning of a Sir Walter Scott story (he stayed at Dunvegan, as did Dr. Johnson). From the Jacobite era there is a waistcoat worn by Bonnie Prince Charlie and a lock of his hair in a locket that belonged to Flora MacDonald.

There was a large portrait of John MacLeod sitting in one of the windows at the castle; we figured out which one by the background view of the isles in the sea. Looked like he was sitting on the radiator though. In the gift shop Angus, a proud of sheep of the MacLeod clan, asked us to take him to America, so we said okay. Angus guarded our car and room for the rest of our trip.

After the castle we went to take a boat ride to see the spotted seal colony. It was raining smartly then and had turned a bit “driech” (and cold) so we were the only ones to go. Not sure the boatman really wanted to go out and we said if the weather was adverse we didn’t really need to go, but he got a jacket to cover our legs and off we went. Not so enjoyable with the cold rain but we did see some seals and an oystercatcher and a grey heron and I guess some gulls. The seals were about to have pups, the boatman said. They were kind of leery—he said they didn’t like the unseasonable cold either. He also told us he had not been off the island in 6 years, and before that he went to India. Every time one of us went to take a picture he would stop the boat.

We finally got off the boat and got lost in the cold and rain in the garden trying to found the way back. I think my fingers must have been tingling for sure. Anyway, finally got to the car and drove back to Portree with no stops—too cold and wet.

We went to the hotel to change as we planned to eat at a seafood restaurant in town. However, when we got to town we found that it was closed on Wednesdays. Looked at some other restaurants but there was either a long wait or they didn’t appeal or were also closed on Wednesdays. Went back to Cuillin Hills with the intention of eating in the bar again, which they said we couldn’t do but they could take us in the fine dining restaurant immediately. We wanted to go up to our room to change into better and drier clothes (were wearing jeans) but they said no, we had to go in right then. So we had canapés in the drawing room and a pre-dinner drink (could have changed while waiting but didn’t know it would take so long). Turned out okay because we had one of the best meals of the visit. Everything was excellent. Didn’t even take as long as usual (meaning two hours instead of three).

Thursday, June 1
Loaded up the car, then had breakfast (pretty good too) and headed for Uig to catch the ferry to Harris. The ferry was not very full so we got loaded an on our way pretty quickly. Sat in the observation deck and here we met Tim and his caretaker whose name I’m not sure we ever caught. “Can you see better up here, Tim?” “Fractionally.” I thought she was his daughter but she said that’s what she does, escorts older people on trips. He was 83 and kept going off to the Hebrides on his own, only he couldn’t get very far so finally she went with him. “Can you tell where we are now, Tim?” “Well, it’s difficult to tell precisely without a map, but we appear to be somewhere north of Uig.” Which we were, of course, having just left 5 minutes earlier.

It was a bit foggy at sea--did see some porpoises though—but there were some sunny spots as we came into Tarbert in Harris. After arriving we headed south to see a bit of South Harris. Very eerie, strange and alien landscape, all rocks and hills (and sheep). Strange to come from this rocky wasteland to the west coast of Harris to see lush grass and golden sand beaches. Very pretty. Saw a standing stone in a sheep pasture near the sea so went to see it. It was fairly sunny on this side of Harris and the ocean was blue and beaches golden.

Went back to Tarbert and I used an ATM. We stopped at a woolens shop and David bought a Harris tweed scarf and I got some Shetland wool mittens, also a Harris tweed keychain. We thought the signs would all be in Gaelic on the Western Isles but they do print the English in small letters below the Gaelic. I had read enough that I knew what the names for Harris, Lewis, and Stornoway were in Gaelic so it wasn’t that hard to figure out. Anyway there is only one main road heading from Tarbert to Stornoway. We headed north and passed one of the b&b’s where we had considered staying, Ardrasaig. Pretty setting right on the coast. But it would have been too much driving I think.

We drove through north Harris—mostly wilderness, with some good-sized mountains and some lochs to the east of the road and realized we were on Lewis shortly, although there were no signs telling us so. Pretty deserted—not much traffic. Lewis becomes flatter although still pretty rocky. On the turn-off to Calanais we stopped to see a stone circle (out in a sheep pasture, naturally). It was kind of boggy and when we reached the stones we saw that they had fallen, but there was a picture of what they must have looked like when standing. We picked up some stones here—strangely colored, streaked with red and green. These must be Lewis gneiss just like the standing stones.

Arrived at Callanish. Went into the visitor center then up the hill to see the stones. Callanish (Calanais) is comparable in size to Stonehenge. It dates from 1800 B.C. and is older than Stonehenge. There is one tall obelisk in the center and around it is a stone circle. There are three avenues leading away from the center, aligned with the tall stone (16 ft high). In the center there is also a burial cairn. The avenue leading north is formed by two sets of stones on either side and the two arms are single stones. It does take the shape of a Celtic cross although of course the construction is much older than Christianity.

Callanish is very impressive. Touching the stones would give either the sensation of warmth or coolness, depending on the stone. There was a great sense of peacefulness here among the stones. If we leaned against certain stones and closed the eyes, it seemed like a different summer day, very sunny and joyous and serene, not cold, grey and rainy. My fingers on my right hand were tingling here but again, it might have been from the rain. It wasn’t really that cold, but it was windy. It would have been nice to have come back on a sunny day but there was no better weather the next day.

We went on to Callanish II and Callanish III. Both are visible from Calanish I, so must have been aligned with it in some way. These are both smaller circles of standing stones. Callanish II has a view to the sea and one slim, sort of pointy stone dominating the circle. Here we had similar sensations and David said at one of these circles (2 or 3) he would get a tingly sensation whenever he stepped into the circle. I put my head against a stone and my head felt funny there, so I had to press the other side of my head to it to balance it. Callanish III (this is a complete circle so it must have been this one) is a smaller circle on top of a hillock with some taller stones in the center. Views of the Harris mountains and the sea.

There is a Callanish IV on the way to Uig, which is the way we went. We didn’t stop for this one, but it can be seen from the road. We figured we better proceed to our stop for the night, Baille na Cille in Timsgarry, because we thought it was quite a drive, although it actually only took about a half hour. Saw a standing stone in the town of Breasclete which looked like it was just a signpost for someone’s driveway, but found out now this is Callanish XII.

Continued on the B-road through peat bogs—some had been cut and piled in stacks—mountains and rocky terrain. At Timsgarry (Timsgearraidh), which, by the way, is the largest hamlet on Uig, we went down a winding lane towards the sea and the wide golden beach to find Baile-na-Cille. It looks somewhat better from a distance, as here:



Richard greeted us by noting our car was rather smart. He showed us around and then to our room, which overlooked the tennis court and the Uig bay. Nice view even with the drizzle and fog. A bit chilly though. He said he was giving us this room because it would heat up fast. Small room but comfortable.

We walked around the grounds but it was too damp to go very far down to the bay. Saw lots of rabbits, not all living. Oh, and sheep. Decided to drive on down towards the west coast. Drove around the Uig bay and found a road that led to the beach from the other side. At the entrance stood a large wooden chessman so it seemed to mark the beach where the Lewis chessmen were discovered. We walked out on the beach as the weather had improved somewhat. Lovely wide gold sand beach. Had some strange shells, long, for one kind of creature we don’t know. Must be a spectacular setting on a warm sunny day.

Drove further until we could see the ocean, along the northwester coast of Lewis. Very dramatic scenes of cliffs and surf pounding against them. In spots where it was sunny, the ocean was brilliant turquoise.

Went back to Baile na Cille for dinner. Had some wine and talked with Richard a bit in the lounge. He told us that the government furnished free broadband on the Western Isles to encourage people to stay. Said service was spotty. Joined an English couple and German family for dinner (smoked salmon for starters, then chicken with herbs, roasted parsnips, potatoes, some good dessert with whisky in it I think and also a cheese plate). English couple were 50ish and have a summer home on Applecross on the mainland. Couldn’t quite understand where the Germans were from, just southern part of Germany. They had come to Newcastle by ferry and were going on the ferry to Ullapool the next day, just as we were. Good conversation and Richard would come in once in a while with a few jokes.

Friday, June 2

Also had an interesting time at breakfast as Richard had many comments—I asked him how to pronounce Baile na Cille and he said he generally avoids it, then gave three possibilities according local dialect. I believe it means village near the church or of the church. Had some of his famous porridge which was quite good. David said his Stornoway black pudding was better than what he’d had elsewhere. Richard buys everything locally, it seems. He had many books on race cars and had a piece of a practice missile which had washed up on shore. Said his wife was the better cook (she runs a flying school in Florida) but he enjoyed cooking.

Settled up and headed back towards Callanish to see a few more things before going to Stornoway. North of Callanish found Dun Carloway, a stone dwelling (broch) dating to about 100 B.C. Very well preserved and shows the living spaces between the walls. The people would have lived in the upper chambers and kept livestock in the lower part. It was probably more a defense against the dreadful weather on Lewis than against other tribes. Inside the walls it was much warmer.

Drove on to see the Blackhouse village at Gearrannan. We went into the gift shop but decided not to pay for the tour of the Blackhouses as we didn’t have that much time to make it worth it. Also saw a big whalebone jaw along this route and stopped at shop that advertised Hebrides Replicas, but there didn’t seem to be anyone around.

Drove around the loop road back to Stornoway. Stornoway is a real city/town with lots of shops, but unfortunately no good ones near the ferry that we could find. There is a castle across the river, but it’s not an old one.

Our ferry was the largest in the fleet. Sat on the observation deck but again, due to fog, there was not much to see. Read, had a beer and a cider, and fell asleep. The approach to Ullapool was nice because the sun was shining on the town.

Once docked in Ullapool we finally found our hotel, the Ceilidh Place. Pretty setting, with flowering trees and roses climbing up the walls. Had a room overlooking the street but with a view of Loch Broom. Picturesque fishing village with mountains on other side of the loch. After settling in our room—which was small but nice comforter on the bed and decent bathroom—we walked around town. Some of the shops were still open. Ran into the German guy from Richard's place and David asked him the name of the Isle of Jura whisky he liked.

Had dinner in the restaurant. Nice view of their garden; could see the chef go out to pick the herbs he wanted to use. Had a huge plate of prawns and David had venison. Hard to get the waiter’s attention at the end so we could pay. Went upstairs and after taking a shower realized there was no hair dryer, so David went down and asked at the desk for one. Also for writing paper. Angus had a nice view of the roses outside the window.

Saturday, June 3

Pleasant breakfast watching birds in the garden, mostly starlings and robins. Family at next table had American father (I guess the wife’s) and two intelligent young English girls.

After breakfast we checked out but left our car parked and walked around Ullapool. Went to a woolens shop and I bought another sweater and a “rug” (throw) that was on sale for only 5 pounds. Went to another gift shop and bought some coasters and earrings. We found there was a market going on—bought some very cool 19th century prints of Kilchurn Castle and Glen Nevis. Also bought more earrings that were cheap and also some ginger cookies and home-made shortbread.

Headed north of Ullapool. Ullapool to Inverness is only a one hour drive but because we took a circuitous route we did a lot of driving that day and it took a long time. Went north into the Assynt. This area is considered by some to be the true Highlands. It is a different terrain, with the mountains close; you actually feel you are driving through the mountains rather than just through the glens. Started out cloudy but it got brighter. This is some of the more remote wilderness in Scotland (called Wester Ross near Ullapool but then we passed into Sutherland). The Assynt is designated a National Scenic Area. It has a rugged coastline but we decided not to head towards the sea since it was probably foggy and we’d seen enough coastline. Drove north to Ardvreck Castle (1590) on Loch Assynt, which was another castle held by the MacLeod clan. Quinag mountain is just beyond. Near the castle is the ruin of Calda House, 1726. This was a mansion was built by the MacKenzies as the wife did not like the castle.

On the route saw a line of white sheep with one black one in the middle, walking along a promontory in the field. Also saw some reindeer in a pasture.

Decided to take a B-road cross country to get to Easter Ross. Much of this was single track so it took longer, but it was a pretty drive, often tree-lined with views of hills and pastures. The east coast is warmer and dryer and it got quite pleasant, maybe in the mid-60s or more. Also more populated as we headed towards Inverness. Stopped for gas but the filling station had been closed for some time. Crossed through many villages, some quaint and others more English-looking. Crossed over sea lochs and had views of the Northern Sea. Of course the tide was out so not so pretty. Went over the Bonar Bridge over the Kyle of Sutherland

Instead of going through Inverness first, we took a more direct route straight to Drumnadrochit and Loch Ness. Went through Beauly, a pretty town known for an old priory. At Drumnadrochit we stopped at the Loch Ness visitor center and bought souvenirs, including a stuffed Nessie. Took a picture of the large Nessie outside. Headed toward Loch Ness and Urquhart Castle. Very touristy area, of course, with lots of tour busses. Urquhart (1230) is another scenic ruin of a tall castle on a loch, but since we’d seen plenty of these, and were pressed for time, we decided not to pay to go in. It’s all fenced off so it’s hard to even get a good picture here. Took our Nessie video and a Japanese tourist was so amused he took a picture of our Nessie doll too. This area was originally a Pictish fort.

Turned around and drove along the Loch towards Inverness. Found a better stopping place not nearly so crowded and with unobstructed views of Loch Ness. Could see boat-like ripples that might have been Nessie swimming under water.

Inverness is a good-sized city but it wasn’t too hard to get through it. Exited south of the city to see some cairns just past Culloden Battlefield. Clava Cairns are in a mystical setting with many huge old trees. They date to 2000 B.C. These are prehistoric burial cairns, the largest two with passageways to the center of the stones. There are also ring cairns with cup-marked stones. I thought these were natural formations and did not know until reading about them that they were markings. Too old to be Pictish I would think. There was a group of German tourists here but they left soon. Supposedly Druids and pagans still use this site for rituals. It certainly has an ancient and fey feel to it.

Drove on south of Inverness to the Cairngorms and exited at Carr Bridge. Followed directions through Nethy Bridge and the Abernethy Forest to the driveway to Aultmore House, on a lovely estate. Nice Edwardian mansion however Mrs. Taylor, the owner, rudely met us at the door and told us she had sold the property and could not accommodate us. Handed us the phone numbers of Nethy hotel, Muchrach Lodge, and the Boat Hotel. When we complained we had no phone, she seemed surprised and reluctantly let us inside to use the bathroom. I already knew Muchrach Lodge was booked up but fortunately the Boat Hotel had a couple of small doubles left. Much resentful about our treatment by Mrs. Taylor as she must have known a week ago, when we were still in the U.S., that she couldn’t accommodate us and could have reached me by email. (Note: months later we learned that the the American who had bought Aultmore House and wanted to take ownership so suddenly, without any concern about those who had booked to stay there was Bob Dylan.)

Went back to Boat of Garten, a pretty town in the Strathspey region and near the Osprey center. They were very nice and showed us the two rooms available. We chose the smaller one because it had a better view and nicer décor. The Boat Hotel is a classic British hotel, 4 stars, and would have been more enjoyable if she had any nicer rooms available—which she said she did just that morning.

We had time before our dinner reservation at Craggan Mill, so drove into Grantown on Spey, which didn’t seem all that appealing, then over to Muchrach Lodge where we almost stayed. Pretty setting with Highland cattle lying down in the grass near the pond. Behind the Lodge is Muchrach Castle, which we could see and finally found a side road to reach. Here we saw many hares and rabbits and also our only sighting of a red squirrel, which has a long fluffy tail, not like fox squirrels in the U.S. Stopped at Muchrach Castle, which is pretty small and just one square tower, and took pictures. Headed back to Craggan Mill for dinner.

Craggan Mill was interestingly decorated, wood paneled walls. Had canapés and drinks in the pub area and then we were seated for dinner. Excellent food. This is where David had haggis for an appetizer. Had sticky toffee pudding for dessert and it was the best we had in Scotland. Chef/owner said it would be available online soon.

Went back to Boat Hotel and had a drink in the pub. The bartender was very helpful choosing whisky. David tried the Isle of Jura and said it did taste like cough syrup, which is what the Englishman at Richard's had said. Bartender then recommended something more elite.

Sunday, June 4

First ones in the breakfast room, as usual. Waiter said it was a bit driech today, a good word to describe Scottish weather when it’s a bit grey and drizzly. Had a garden view. Ate our last full Scottish breakfast. Had salmon and eggs as they didn’t have the haddock dish I liked.

Nothing was open yet in Boat of Garten but it was becoming a nice day and it’s a cute town. Mailed a postcard to Mom. We then headed into the Cairngorms National Park. Stopped near a bridge and took a short walk. Beautiful loch (Morlich?) with duck pairs just sitting near the water, quacking to warn us so we wouldn’t tread on them. Quite tame. Headed back into Aviemore and there we saw a stone circle right in town, but there was nowhere to park easily. Took a quaint back road that passed through wooded lanes and pastures. Took a picture of some Highland cattle lying down near a fence. Eventually reached Ruthven Barracks near Kingussie. Originally this was a castle (1229) owned by Alexander Stewart, Lord of Badenoch and known as the Wolf of Badenoch. In Jacobite times (1715) the castle was removed and the English put a barracks here. The Jacobites assembled here after Bonnie Prince Charlie lost the Battle of Culloden. He sent a message that every man should save himself, so they burned the barracks. There are supposed to be chess-playing ghosts here—supposedly the Wolf of Badenoch played chess once with the Devil here.

At Kingussie we got on the highway to Perth. Passed through Monarch of the Glen country, with mountains all around and green pastures and glens. Passed through Killiekrankie Pass on the A9 which is scenic, in the Grampian Mountains. Also Pitlochry with Blair Castle, which we could see from the highway.

We got off the motorway at Dunblane, and saw the cathedral (1233) there but it was locked up. Got back on the highway and went to Doune Castle. I thought it was one of the best castles we saw. Familiar both inside and out from the Monty Python movie, it looks like a medieval castle should look, even though one wall was in scaffolding. Doune dates from the 14th century and belonged to the Stewart clan. The Lord’s Hall has wood paneling and two ornate throne-like chairs against the double fireplace (the castle has some enormous fireplaces, a big candelabra and a musicians' gallery. The Great Hall is all stone except for some wooden braces above and there was a container of firewood in the center. You can climb several floors up using narrow, winding stone staircases and go out on a walkway near the roof to look over the landscape and the town of Doune. It was a beautiful warm day by then, probably close to 70 degrees. We also stopped at the gift shop there and David bought a shot glass with a thistle on it.

Walked behind the castle along the river (Teith or Tay) to get views of the back. Flowering trees made it a pretty scene.

Went back towards Stirling. Was also worried that Stirling would be hard to navigate since it is a city, but it was easy to find the castle since it’s on a hilltop and visible from the highway. Drove through town on narrow winding streets to Stirling Castle (late 15th c). From the walls there were lovely views of Stirlingshire. Could also see the Wallace Monument, built in the Victorian era, and there were statues of Robert the Bruce and someone else (WWI?) This was an important castle, where the kings and queens of Scotland resided until union with England. Probably should have gone inside to see it but it was expensive (8.50 pounds) and a lot of it was in scaffolding being refurbished, and we were pressed for time, as always. Went into the gift shop, which was a nice one. The upper part was dedicated to the Lady and Unicorn and the Hunt for the Unicorn tapestries. The nice young man that worked there explained that when the palace is refurbished they will have replicas of the Hunt for the Unicorn tapestries (the originals are at the Cloisters in NYC) to decorate it. Bought some plates and a Christmas decoration here.

On the way back down from Stirling Castle passed Argyll’s Lodging, a 17th century town house, and the Old Town Jail. From Stirling we took a minor road to Fintry. Stopped in a town north of Fintry to get gas. Drove on to Fintry and Culcreuch Castle.

This castle is the oldest inhabited castle in central Scotland, continuously occupied since it was built in 1390. It was built by Clan Galbraith. It’s now run as a country house hotel, set in 1600 acres of parkland. The castle is not very tall, one of the rectangular shaped tower-types, but the inside is elegantly decorated just as you would like a castle to look. Our room was the Baron’s Room on the 4th floor, with a door to its own foyer. Lovely large room with a four poster bed and big modern bathroom. View out over the park down to the pond with its swans and ducks, and mountains beyond. We brought our things up, made reservations for dinner, and then took a walk around the grounds. We walked around the pond and saw the swans, also ducks hiding in the reeds. Everywhere were huge rhododendrons in bloom, mostly pink but some white. Very old trees with impressive shapes. There was a fir tree so tall it towered over all the other trees. Sheep in the pastures nearby. We also walked up the hill behind the castle, through many other older trees and rhododendrons, to the lodge area. Crossed a bridge with a flowering tree and many bees.

Changed clothes and sat in the Dungeon bar, with burnished stone walls, to have a drink. There were steps going down to what must have been the actual dungeon but it was closed off. We were the only ones in the very elegant Laird’s Hall (or Arthur’s Seat) for dinner, at least for a while. Had a pleasant dinner although dessert took quite a long time.

Afterwards went up to our room to pack as we had to leave early to get to the airport. David conked out but I took a shower and packed as much as I could. Angus enjoyed the view—many bunnies on the lawn as the sun began to set.

Was a little worried about the resident ghost, once I went to bed, and could hear creaking in the hallway and could hear the staff lock the doors and leave for the night, so we were locked in with the ghosts. We had a key to the front door for our early departure, however.

In the morning finished packing and went to the breakfast room, but didn’t feel like eating much. There was another American couple there, also going to Glasgow to catch an 11 am flight, but to Philadelphia.

Followed the directions printed out from Culchreuch Castle, and took a few wrong turns as we got close to the Glasgow suburbs. Rush hour traffic was busy but moved. Went through the Clyde tunnel and then had some trouble getting into the Avis return area. Gassed up but the gas tank showed less gas than previously. They told us sometimes Peugeots do that. Took a shuttle for the few yards it was to the airport and then checked in. A security agent pulled my checked bag aside and searched it, sort of superficially.

Plane ride back was marred by talkative flight attendants standing behind us chatting with a honeymoon couple when most people would have liked to have slept, but arrived on time, breezed through customs, and arrived home to some eager-to-go-outside cats.